After having my flight cancelled or delayed 5 times due to weather, I finally made it to the Pampas. There was a lot of drama with our tour and wanting to go right when we got there on the Friday and it being too late. Leaving on the Saturday, things also were delayed. We were supposed to leave early and didn´t and then Santa Rosa had no power so we couldn’t get fuel for the boat. Apparently, Rurrenabaque doesn´t sell fuel for transport because people will use it to make cocaine. Who knew? After an hour, our guide found fuel and we were ready to rock. But then there was a phone call. We had to wait for more people to come. Most of the group was not impressed.
Despite this, the Pampas were amazing. We saw pink river dolphins right when we got there. They are pinker depending on if they eat a lot of sardines or not. The day we went to swim with them only one was in the water and he swam away. But, they actually play with you by biting your toes, which is kind of sketchy considering there are also caimens in the water so I decided I was okay with that. We also saw lots of monkeys, different types of birds (cranes, pampas condor, hawk , toucans, this weird chicken one) caimens, and sloths. I did not know I was going to get to see sloths. SO cool. They are probably one of the world´s slowest creatures and they spend a lot of time napping, but I was so fascinated by them! I am definitely happy that I went even with all the troubles. I wish I had the photos as there were some awesome ones of the birds in flight.
Friday, January 24, 2014
The Death Road
View of the road from further up.
Since coming to South America, the Death Road was something I asked everyone about but was very unsure about doing. I had read about it in the memoir of ¨´The Good Girl´s Guide to Getting Lost¨´ and wondered if I had the guts for it. Until I arrived in La Paz, I was sure I was not going to do it, at least not without someone I trusted. Then, when I arrived with Hailey and the posters were everywhere and Tom was telling me about his experience, the idea that I could handle it creeped in. Then, when we ran into Aoife and Annelie and Aoife was pretty much set on doing it, I thought I´ll do it if you do it. I was committed.
Drinking 96% alcohol for luck.
Aoife giving some alcohol back to the Pachamama for a safe ride
The name itself is a lot more daunting than the actual ride. A new road from La Paz to Coroico was built a couple years ago and now the road is solely used for biker enthusiasts. If cars were still on it, there is no way I would ride that thing. Scary and a half. That being said, even without cars careless people still took wipeouts and one girl had to get nine stitches in her arm. Usually, you start somewhere in the mountains around 4650 m above sea level and then you make your 61 km descent down theYungas road into the cloud rainforest and end up around 1200m.
Practice before hitting the actual Death Road.
Llama on...or in Aoife´s case rock on.
About half way done, right before we hit the part with the waterfalls.
Clearly our guide Eddy has said something very confusing.
You barely have to pedal, you go under waterfalls, see all types of amazing vegetation, and breathtaking views. Definitely, glad I did not pass it up.
Conquering the mountain! Clearly, Aoife has way more upper body strength than I do.
About a minute after this I got stuck in the water and had to run my bike out.
The group we went with posted more photos to facebook. If you want to see them search Barracuda Biking La Paz and look under January 8th, 2014
Saturday, December 28, 2013
The Holidays in Sucre
Some of the local women in the streets.
It's funny when you realize that you have become really comfortable with a place. Today, I realized I had hardly taken any pictures in Sucre, which lead to the realization that it felt like a place that I live. You don't tend to take mass amounts of photos of the places you live because they're consistent.
You're always there, never leaving. But I have become antsy and I know it is time to leave Sucre. The decision comes after quite a few days of questioning when I should leave. I think if I stayed, my Spanish would continue to improve and I would continue to enjoy my time in the orphanage. Plus, yesterday I went running for the first time in ages and it feels good to have the pain of knowing that I have started running again. I think it is something that I am going to have to keep doing as I move forward in the next three months of travelling.
But here is the real event of the past few days: Christmas in Sucre!
My original intention in coming to Sucre over the holidays was to study Spanish, volunteer and do a homestay. I accomplished two of those things. Spanish and volunteering have gone very well, however, getting myself into a homestay just didn't seem to work out. At first, I kind of thought I would be bummed, but as it turned out I think it was one of the best things that could have happened. The hostel I ended up staying at had a different vibe than most. I had been warned when the Beehive was recommended to me that most people ended up staying longer then they intended. To be honest, this hostel is a lot like a house and offers a variety of places to chill. But what really made it was the people.
The two girls on my right are from Iceland!
Christmas table..
Traditional Bolivian Christmas Dish!
On the 24th of December, most Bolivians celebrate by having a traditional Bolivian dish. The hostel offered this dish to us. It was called Piquena and had chicken and meat with potatoes and vegetables in a kind of soup. It was servedwith corn and salad and a variety of desserts. On top of this, there were three people who made the whole event extra special: the Germans- Pia and Johanes, and their extension-Hayley.
Those who brought extra Christmas cheer -Johanes, Hayley and Pia
Johanes organizing the homemade wine so he can bring it downstairs.
Guy as Santa. Unfortunately, Santa only had one boot this year as the elves haven't quite figured out zippers.
It was definitely a very memorable Christmas and one I won't forget. I think it is part of the reason that I am having trouble leaving. When I look back on Ushuaia, I talk about the magic of Ushuaia and the people I met there. But I think here tops it, the feeling is 10x stronger.
Tomorrow, I say goodbye and head to Tupiza with Aoife and Annelie for the next adventure!
Tuesday, December 17, 2013
Spanish Schools and Sucre
It feels so good to finally be in Bolivia. It is like all my thoughts about getting here and being in Sucre have come to fruition. After landing in Uyuni after the Salar tour, I wondered if all of Bolivia was similar. There are a number of stark differences between Sucre and Uyuni. Uyuni primarily serves as a stop be for the salt flats. A place to find a cheap tour and get on the road. It reminded me of Arica in Chile without the charm. It felt edgy, rougher, and like something needed to bring it to life. Maybe it felt this waybecause we were there on a Sunday? Maybe I felt this way because I have been told to be more cautious in Bolivia? I am unsure. However, one thing we all knew was that we were not staying.
In comparison, Sucre reminds me of Cusco. It has a very nice main square surrounded by lots of white buildings. It is a city that has some charm and life. If passing through, I would say 2-3 days here would suffice; however, if you want to learn Spanish this is the place to be. I went and talked to four or five different companies yesterday. They all offered similar opportunities for private and small group lessons at a reasonable price. Plus, they all included the opportunity to do extra activities, volunteering, and a homestay! Being my indecisive self, I thought how do I chose? Then, I emailed Beehive hostel (recommended to me in Arica by another lovely Canadian) and they suggested their top schools, but they also said they have friends who offer private lessons right at the hostel for 35 bolivianos an hour! 35 bolivianos is less than $6.00 Canadian!! For private lessons! I am so excited. Normally, the Beehive also has a cooperative where people from the community come in and you can be language partners. This consists of them speaking five minutes of Spanish and you speaking five minutes of English. However, because of the time of year, most of the students have left so I won't be able to participate in that.
In addition to finding a language school, I was also on a mission to find some volunteer work. At Fenix language school (which runs as a not for profit and puts the money back into the community) they work with a number of government programs and schools. But because it is the holidays and I think I am only staying here two weeks, volunteering with those programs is not really possible. However, I am still able to volunteer at an orphanage, which is what I wanted to do anyways! On Saturday, the Beehive is doing Christmas decorating and cookie baking with an orphanage and on Monday, Fenix will be doing a gift exchange that I will help with. I think I will also go to the orphanage on my own and help out. I am so excited to have the opportunity to give back again, especially around this time of year.
It finally feels like Christmas and it is welcomed into my life. The square in Sucre is all decorated beautifully and looks so pretty at night. The coloured lights against the white buildings make for the perfect festive setting. I am missing the snow back home, but not the cold!
I am still considering doing a homestay for the holidays and should know by Wednesday or Thursday if that will happen. I think it would be cool to participate in another countries traditions while attempting to improve my spanish. At this point in time, I am using more Spanish and I am attempting to say more even when I don't know. I'm finding that I feel it is necessary here and that I have enough basics to get by. I definitely can understand more than I can say so I am hoping my Spanish lessons help with this.
In comparison, Sucre reminds me of Cusco. It has a very nice main square surrounded by lots of white buildings. It is a city that has some charm and life. If passing through, I would say 2-3 days here would suffice; however, if you want to learn Spanish this is the place to be. I went and talked to four or five different companies yesterday. They all offered similar opportunities for private and small group lessons at a reasonable price. Plus, they all included the opportunity to do extra activities, volunteering, and a homestay! Being my indecisive self, I thought how do I chose? Then, I emailed Beehive hostel (recommended to me in Arica by another lovely Canadian) and they suggested their top schools, but they also said they have friends who offer private lessons right at the hostel for 35 bolivianos an hour! 35 bolivianos is less than $6.00 Canadian!! For private lessons! I am so excited. Normally, the Beehive also has a cooperative where people from the community come in and you can be language partners. This consists of them speaking five minutes of Spanish and you speaking five minutes of English. However, because of the time of year, most of the students have left so I won't be able to participate in that.
In addition to finding a language school, I was also on a mission to find some volunteer work. At Fenix language school (which runs as a not for profit and puts the money back into the community) they work with a number of government programs and schools. But because it is the holidays and I think I am only staying here two weeks, volunteering with those programs is not really possible. However, I am still able to volunteer at an orphanage, which is what I wanted to do anyways! On Saturday, the Beehive is doing Christmas decorating and cookie baking with an orphanage and on Monday, Fenix will be doing a gift exchange that I will help with. I think I will also go to the orphanage on my own and help out. I am so excited to have the opportunity to give back again, especially around this time of year.
It finally feels like Christmas and it is welcomed into my life. The square in Sucre is all decorated beautifully and looks so pretty at night. The coloured lights against the white buildings make for the perfect festive setting. I am missing the snow back home, but not the cold!
Lights in Plaza 23 de Mayo
Notice how Santa's face is white but hands are a different colour.
Friday, December 13, 2013
Thoughts in the Desert
One of the views on from the bus on the way to San Pedro.
Making my way up from the south has been interesting. After the marble caves, I encountered a number of small towns with irregular bus systems and very few places to stay. I also had issues with the fact that I wasn't getting to Bolivia when I wanted. I realized that by creating that timeline for myself I wasn't truly enjoying where I was and I just needed to let it go a bit. When I was finally alone again, after Puerto Monty, all the feelings of nervousness came back to me. It is weird to be the only white person amongst a sea of Chileans, but to recognize that you are not the only traveller. You are the only tourist. It really made me want to brush up on my Spanish.
I definitely felt this way on the way to Valporaiso. I had heard and read so many things about getting mugged that I was really nervous when I got off the bus. Everything was fine though and I loved Valporaiso. It reminded me of how I felt when I was in Venice. How I was just content to be lost in the city and take it all in. That it didn't matter if I was alone because I was having this amazing experience with the city itself. That might sound weird... but that's what happened! The street art in Valpo is so amazing! I have so many photos and I am sure there is so much more that I missed. One of the best things though was that I met these guys from Colorado after my walking tour who were going the same way as me and they let me join them so I got to take night photos! As a single girl travelling, I avoid this situation for safety reasons; thus, I never get to do it and I was so thrilled to be able to in such a cool city! I am so happy that I opted to go there and not pass the city up:)
After Valporaiso, I made my way here to the desert. I have never been to the desert before now, let me tell you.. it is amazing!I was so excited looking out the window on the bus. San Pedro de Atacama, itself, has a charm to it. I haven't really wanted to leave and it is the first time I've stayed anywhere for four nights in forever. I just love the chill atmosphere with the sunshine, stargazing and hammocks!
The amazing clouds in the desert!
Nefi and I on our private desert tour.
Our tour guide playing the flight of the Condor.
After the ruins, we went to visit the moon valley. We only got as far as the salt caves because were going to have to return our bikes, but they were so incredible! The desert sunset that day was also amazing!
Mind blown. I didn't even know where to look.
My camera changed to black and white.. so I guess I am really on the moon?
The view of the amazing sunset!
Yesterday, I went to Cejar Laguna. It is a salt lagoon. You literally just float the whole time! My body was so bouyant I couldn't believe it. It was so neat. They say its like being in the dead sea but not to the same extent. When you walk out you have salt all over your body. After, we went to a second lagoon ths is 500m deep and naturally formed by the earth
We had to jump off the edge to get in. After watching people I was really nervous and I actually backed out when jumping with Marlene. But once you do it, the rush and the feeling of hitting the water is amazing!
Today, I head to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia! I can't wait:)
Friday, November 29, 2013
Adventuring in Southern Argentina!
I have had problems with this page uploading on my phone, which is why I haven't updated. However, that doesn't mean I haven't been busy!
After Iguazu, Elisabeth and I hung out in the Palermo area of Buenos Aires. We ate good food, did a free walking tour, pub crawl, and rented bikes to go to San Telmo and Boca. That was an interesting adventure which resulted in us viewing a huge street market, seeing what a football game is like from the outside, looking at beautiful coloured houses, getting lost multiple times, and Elisabeth missing her taxi to the airport!
When Elisabeth left, I honestly just took the 3 days I had in Buenos Aires to just chill. It was sad to part ways because we had so much fun and got on so well...but it has also been nice exploring on my own and having to do my own thing. I have found you meet the most people in the kitchen!
From Buenos Aires, I flew to the last city at the end of the world, Ushuaia. I met some of the loveliest people there and just had a really relaxing time. It was the first time in forever that I stayed in the same room with the same bed for 3 days!
In Ushuaia, you mostly do outdorsy things. The first day, I was so tired from not sleeping that I opted out of going to the national park and just hung out and went to a museum. I tried to go see penguins but the water was too rough. The nextb day, I went to Tierre del Fuego National Park, which reminded me so much of the west coast just with the mountains closer. On my last day, I went on the Beagle Channel and saw some sea lions, a lighthouse and went on a nature reserve.
It was pretty cool... not penguins. But it worked and the people I went with were great company :) plus, we got hot chocolate and home brewed beer!
After Ushuaia, I took a long bus ride to El Calafate. Over the course of the bus ride, you leave Argentina and go into Chile only to later leave Chile and go into Argentina. It was long, but the main highlight was crossing the Strait of Magellan! That was pretty cool. The next day, I quickly booked a afternoon bus to see Perito Moreno glacier. It was amazing! The cracks in the ice were so ethereal blue and even though it started raining I still spent two hours staring at it. It was also so cool to hear and watch the ice fall off into the ocean! It is definitely one of the highlights so far! I loved every minute of it:)
After a day in El Calafate, I booked it to Puerto Natales because I wanted to do Torrres del Paine before the busy season.
I booked a hostel there based on the fact that the reviews said the hostel owner was so helpful. I got there and told him I wanted to do the hike and did not have too much of a plan and wanted some advice. He told me to check the internet. I was so mad in that moment. I was tired, no one was in the hostel, I was angry that he wasn't willing to help me and I did not want to pay to stay there. I dropped my stuff in the room and went to the living room where I found two girls from California who told me about there plan to hike from East to West meaning you see the towers on the first day. I had been so worried about having people to hike with that I asked if I could join them right away and basically clung to their plan. This resulted in me booking an extra night of tenting at Refugio Grey which I actually didn't use.
The hike itself was beautiful! We had amazing weather. Everyone we talked to thought we were crazy for going east to west and suggested going west to east due to the wind but there was no wind so it was perfect. Plus, it was awesome to have a great view of the towers right away:) This hike was way more relaxed than the Inca trail and I just had such a good time. The scenery was so beautiful and changed so much.
I realized being worried about hiking alone was silly as I did hike some of it alone on the last two days and I met so many cool people and when I got on the bus to go there I met boys I had met in Ushuaia who invited me to go with them! If I hadn't already made a plan with Chloe and Miki, I think I would have.
The one night, Miki and Chloe stayed in a cabana and they let me sleep on their floor instead of camp!
We had wine that night and Miki really wanted to swim in the beautiful blue lake. As I was brushing my teeth I thought well why not. So at almost 10 oclock we hopped in the glacier lake up to our belly buttons. I swear I could not feel my feet! But it was so worth it!
The next day, I chose to hike to the french valley while they went on. Another moment that was so worth it. It was beautiful.
After hiking 20 k to get to refugio grey I was exhuasted though. I tried to see if I could rent a room, but they were all out. So I had to set up Chloe's tent.
The thing about the tent is... I have never set one up! I aldo never checked to see what kind Chloe had. So I was exhuasted and pulled out this tent that looked like mosquito netting. I admit I had no idea what I was doing so I asked the people next to me for help. They were two men and a girl who were from Venezuela and they laughed but they did help me. They smiled a lot at my muchas gracias'! So once the tent was up, I realized I might freeze with all the wind. This tent was made for Osoyoos summer weather not potential 0 to -10 weather! I tried to rent a different tent but they were out.. so I settled on two sleeping bags! It was an interesting night! I was definitely glad to be back at the hostel in a bed the next night.
I travelled to El Chalten after that and I was going to hike Fitz Roy. However, I was only there a day and I had come down with a cold/the weather was super windy. Instead I hiked to a lookout and these lakes. It was ok..but at that point I was kind of done with it and needed a break. So to the marble caves I went. I was supposed to meet Lee, another girl I volunteered with but the timing didn't work out.
So I took a night bus from El Chalten to Los Antiguous, waited 3 hours there to take a mini bus to the border, walk across to take a pick up to Chile Chico and go to the information. I'd met four other pll trying to get to the caves as well so we banded together. At information we find out there are no busses to Rio Tranquillo till tomorrow. So we rented a mini bus to drive us for 9000 more Chilenos than a regular bus. The drive here was amazing, but it was so hard not to sleep.
There were beautiful views of ethereal blue lakes and snow capped mountains! When we got here, we followed this guy to this quaint hostel. Seriously, we are basically staying in these people's home. They are so helpful and lovely.
This morning we went to the caves and it was so beautiful! We even got to walk in them. The stark difference between the blue water and the marble was just stunning! I am definitely happy that I made the trip. Plus, I am really enjoying the people that I've met:)
Elisabeth and I at Iguazu Falls.
When Elisabeth left, I honestly just took the 3 days I had in Buenos Aires to just chill. It was sad to part ways because we had so much fun and got on so well...but it has also been nice exploring on my own and having to do my own thing. I have found you meet the most people in the kitchen!
From Buenos Aires, I flew to the last city at the end of the world, Ushuaia. I met some of the loveliest people there and just had a really relaxing time. It was the first time in forever that I stayed in the same room with the same bed for 3 days!
Llamaing with the Ushuaia sign.
So shocked I caught this shot.
Look at that monster sea lion in the back. He was so noisy!
Nefi, her French friend, and I drinking hot chocolate in the magic of Ushaia.
The boat to commemorate shipwrecks at 5:30 in the morning.
Perito Moreno glacier!
After a day in El Calafate, I booked it to Puerto Natales because I wanted to do Torrres del Paine before the busy season.
I booked a hostel there based on the fact that the reviews said the hostel owner was so helpful. I got there and told him I wanted to do the hike and did not have too much of a plan and wanted some advice. He told me to check the internet. I was so mad in that moment. I was tired, no one was in the hostel, I was angry that he wasn't willing to help me and I did not want to pay to stay there. I dropped my stuff in the room and went to the living room where I found two girls from California who told me about there plan to hike from East to West meaning you see the towers on the first day. I had been so worried about having people to hike with that I asked if I could join them right away and basically clung to their plan. This resulted in me booking an extra night of tenting at Refugio Grey which I actually didn't use.
The hike itself was beautiful! We had amazing weather. Everyone we talked to thought we were crazy for going east to west and suggested going west to east due to the wind but there was no wind so it was perfect. Plus, it was awesome to have a great view of the towers right away:) This hike was way more relaxed than the Inca trail and I just had such a good time. The scenery was so beautiful and changed so much.
The view of the towers on the first day!
I realized being worried about hiking alone was silly as I did hike some of it alone on the last two days and I met so many cool people and when I got on the bus to go there I met boys I had met in Ushuaia who invited me to go with them! If I hadn't already made a plan with Chloe and Miki, I think I would have.
The one night, Miki and Chloe stayed in a cabana and they let me sleep on their floor instead of camp!
Wine after the third day! I love how the man we asked to take the photo took so long to line up the photo so that the shoes were included.
Taking a dip in glacier water (aka glacier milk)
The next day, I chose to hike to the french valley while they went on. Another moment that was so worth it. It was beautiful.
Part of the French Valley.
The thing about the tent is... I have never set one up! I aldo never checked to see what kind Chloe had. So I was exhuasted and pulled out this tent that looked like mosquito netting. I admit I had no idea what I was doing so I asked the people next to me for help. They were two men and a girl who were from Venezuela and they laughed but they did help me. They smiled a lot at my muchas gracias'! So once the tent was up, I realized I might freeze with all the wind. This tent was made for Osoyoos summer weather not potential 0 to -10 weather! I tried to rent a different tent but they were out.. so I settled on two sleeping bags! It was an interesting night! I was definitely glad to be back at the hostel in a bed the next night.
I travelled to El Chalten after that and I was going to hike Fitz Roy. However, I was only there a day and I had come down with a cold/the weather was super windy. Instead I hiked to a lookout and these lakes. It was ok..but at that point I was kind of done with it and needed a break. So to the marble caves I went. I was supposed to meet Lee, another girl I volunteered with but the timing didn't work out.
So I took a night bus from El Chalten to Los Antiguous, waited 3 hours there to take a mini bus to the border, walk across to take a pick up to Chile Chico and go to the information. I'd met four other pll trying to get to the caves as well so we banded together. At information we find out there are no busses to Rio Tranquillo till tomorrow. So we rented a mini bus to drive us for 9000 more Chilenos than a regular bus. The drive here was amazing, but it was so hard not to sleep.
The view along the way.
Marble Caves!!
This morning we went to the caves and it was so beautiful! We even got to walk in them. The stark difference between the blue water and the marble was just stunning! I am definitely happy that I made the trip. Plus, I am really enjoying the people that I've met:)
Some of the children from Rio Tranquillo playing on the lake.
Sunday, November 10, 2013
Speed Travelling
So since leaving Cusco things have been a bit of a whirl wind! Elisabeth and I have come to call it speed travelling considering half the time we've forgotten the day or one day feels like 3.
First, I'll start with the Inca trail. I am super happy I did the Inca trail even though I feel as though I had a bit of a love hate relationship with it. I didn't go with the other vols and it ended up that there were only 4 people in my group including me. One girl was from Ireland and then there was a German brother and sister with limited English. So it was interesting. The day we started the car was late picking me up at the house and I wondered if I was even going to get to do the trail at all!
We started out in the rain on the first day, but it cleared. It quickly became apparent to me that I was going to be the last person in this group and the trek was going to be very solitary. On the second day, whoch is the hardest, I think I was a bit dehydrated in the beginning as my one eye was kind of blurry like it was swimming and then my tongue and hand went numb. After our second check-point it rained for a solid 4 hours. All the way up Dead Woman's pass and all the way down. I literally got to the top, had a vague idea that it was the pass, and the rest of the group had gone down, so I took a picture and headed right down. Down sucked. I almost fell so many times. It definitely was the most trying day. Plus, we all finished early so none of our porters were there with tents! We stayed next to this really nice waterfall and when the clouds cleared (for a moment) the mountains we were in were gorgeous as well. The third day was definitely my favourite! It was beautiful, yes!
There were lots of ruins and jungle, and I finally figured out the right way to carry my pack! I spent a good hour of the hike without anyone passing me.. which led me to question if I really was on the Inka trail/if something were to happen who would help me? On the fourth day, we got up at 3:30 am so we could leave by 4 and be in line for the check point which opened at 5:30. We were the fourth group in line which was good because we got through fast. On the walk to the sun gate, I fell on my knee right before you reach all the steps! That part really hurt and my knee bugged me for a few days after. At the sun gate (where you see all the postcard pics of Machu Picchu) all we could see was mist and when we got to the ruins it was the same.
But as we watched it was so cool to watch the city in the clouds form out of the mist! The rest of the day we toured around the ruins and then Dee and I went to the hot springs in Aguas Caliente. It was really nice even though I needed a lot of convincing to go in!
The next day, Elisabeth and I said bye to Jenny and got on our first bus adventure... a night bus to Arequipa. From there we caught another bus to Tacna and in Tacna, we caught a taxi over the Chilean border into Arica. The taxi was definitely an experience. They make sure it is full and they take your passport to get your info (which they end up copying down wrong) and then you drive. I was really happy Elisabeth was there to do thaf with me for the first time! Otherwise, I probably would've been on a bus and waiting a lot longer.
Once we got into Arica and found our hostel we decided to explore. Arica is actually nothing special.. it's rather run down in its central area, but has a charm that gets you. Our hostel was cool.. really nm open concept and beachy feel. Plus, it helped that we went to the beach and surfed both days and went out with a big group the one night.
From there we headed on a plane to Santiago where we were supposed to catch a morning flight to Buenos Aires. BIG SNAG. I didn't know you could only pay your reciprocity fee online and I thought that they would ask me at customs. Nope..no one did so then I just assumed they would ask once we got there. So when we went to board, the man told me no you can't go no reciprocity fee. He said there was no time for me to go pay it and that was it I wasn't going. It was rather intense and I felt my stomach drop. Thank gosh Elisabeth was there and could ask questions because they barelt spoke English. This wonderful flight attendant ended up rebooking our flight, cancelling our stamp out of Chile (which made us look like criminals, and then showing me the dinky computer I could pay my reciprocity fee on. LITERALLY no info was around it and I would have never found it on my own. I felt really bad because Elisabeth only had 10 extra days to spend and then herenit was that one of them was not in BA like we planned. But she was really good about it and we went and explored Santiago for a few hours. We ate there and did a hop on hop off tour which was hard not to fall asleep on after all our nightime airport napping. After that we headed on our flight to BA.
When we got to BA, it was a good thing we were exhausted because our hostel was nothing special. In the morning, we woke up to find bugs, like roaches, under our bags!! Good thing we went to explore for a few hours and got a bus to Iguazu at 3. Iguazu was amazing. You can't not be happy there! We got there and immediately went to the park. We went on with this jungle adventure group, where they take you througg a bit of the jungle ans then on a zodiac to some of the falls. We got so wet from the spray! It was so amazing! After we walked up and saw the falls from a different view and then we went to the Devil's Throat which was amazing as it is the top of the main falls. You cannot go near it without getting wet! The next day, we went on the Marcuca trail and swam in a pool with waterfalls. It was so nice and so worth it! I can definitely see why it is one of the new seven wonders of the world
Day 3 on the trail admiring the view.
We started out in the rain on the first day, but it cleared. It quickly became apparent to me that I was going to be the last person in this group and the trek was going to be very solitary. On the second day, whoch is the hardest, I think I was a bit dehydrated in the beginning as my one eye was kind of blurry like it was swimming and then my tongue and hand went numb. After our second check-point it rained for a solid 4 hours. All the way up Dead Woman's pass and all the way down. I literally got to the top, had a vague idea that it was the pass, and the rest of the group had gone down, so I took a picture and headed right down. Down sucked. I almost fell so many times. It definitely was the most trying day. Plus, we all finished early so none of our porters were there with tents! We stayed next to this really nice waterfall and when the clouds cleared (for a moment) the mountains we were in were gorgeous as well. The third day was definitely my favourite! It was beautiful, yes!
Parts of the Jungle
Above: The ruins coming out of the mist.
Below: One last look before leaving.
Below: One last look before leaving.
The next day, Elisabeth and I said bye to Jenny and got on our first bus adventure... a night bus to Arequipa. From there we caught another bus to Tacna and in Tacna, we caught a taxi over the Chilean border into Arica. The taxi was definitely an experience. They make sure it is full and they take your passport to get your info (which they end up copying down wrong) and then you drive. I was really happy Elisabeth was there to do thaf with me for the first time! Otherwise, I probably would've been on a bus and waiting a lot longer.
Once we got into Arica and found our hostel we decided to explore. Arica is actually nothing special.. it's rather run down in its central area, but has a charm that gets you. Our hostel was cool.. really nm open concept and beachy feel. Plus, it helped that we went to the beach and surfed both days and went out with a big group the one night.
Part of Arica near the square.
A saying I liked in Spanish: I am you. You are me.
When we got to BA, it was a good thing we were exhausted because our hostel was nothing special. In the morning, we woke up to find bugs, like roaches, under our bags!! Good thing we went to explore for a few hours and got a bus to Iguazu at 3. Iguazu was amazing. You can't not be happy there! We got there and immediately went to the park. We went on with this jungle adventure group, where they take you througg a bit of the jungle ans then on a zodiac to some of the falls. We got so wet from the spray! It was so amazing! After we walked up and saw the falls from a different view and then we went to the Devil's Throat which was amazing as it is the top of the main falls. You cannot go near it without getting wet! The next day, we went on the Marcuca trail and swam in a pool with waterfalls. It was so nice and so worth it! I can definitely see why it is one of the new seven wonders of the world
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